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Why did we choose to live in Salta, Argentina?

“Why Salta?” people ask me all the time. Friends.  Family. People I’ve met through this blog and even from Saltenos. All want to know why an American family would settle here. The answer is simple.

arthouse, Salta, cloudhead, this is where we live in Salta

We left NYC to travel, yes, but we had another motive as well. We left on an open ended journey to find a new place to call home.

So then, get to it. Why Salta?

The weather here is lovely. Never too hot. Never too cold. Salta is a city, big enough to find everything you could possibly want or need. Ok, maybe not maple syrup, but that’s a small price to pay to live in such a lovely place. Still, it’s small enough not to feel overwhelmed and overcrowded.

There’s a well working system of buses. Wifi cafes and local internet make it easy to stay connected to the world outside of Salta, and it has an international airport and bus station making it easily accessible from anywhere in South America.  As I explore more, I find unique places and people who show me a different way to view the world.

But really, it’s the people here that make me want to stay.

People here use a particular figure of speech in response to a Thank You that sums it all up for me. You don’t say You’re welcome as is the case in English. It’s not the French Je vous en prie. And not even the de nada you hear in other Spanish speaking places.

Here, they say Aye, por nada and always said with such warmth and meaning that you truly feel that you are indeed welcome, that whatever has been done for you comes from the heart with no strings and from a a complete and utter generosity of spirit.

When Noah was sick last year, our neighbor, who I barely knew, found a Wichi, photography, teaching photography to indigenous Wichi childrendoctor who would make a house call to a highly febrile American. When we needed a place to stay but the apartment we wanted to rent wouldn’t be ready for another week, another friend took us into her home while our new landlord, another stranger, stored our bags.

I find the same openness everywhere I go, and at first I didn’t trust it. Fifteen years in New York taught me that words don’t mean what they appear on the surface. Salta is helping me unlearn all that.

It’s a slow process, but over time, we have built a life here, and we have built our NGO Cloudhead ART based on that life with the idea that maybe we can give back just a little bit to this community via photography, art and technology.

Of course, it doesn’t hurt that the cost of living in Salta is less money and of better quality than just about any other place I’ve been. There’s lots to do and a great school for Lila. All the fruit and vegetables in the market here — the fabulous mercado municipal on calle Urquiza — has been locally grown. The wine region here is incredible. Travel just a half an hour by bus, and you’ll find some of the most beautiful country I’ve ever
experienced.

Nothing in life is perfect. I’m aware of that, and as easily as I list the positives, I could supply you with a list of negatives as well. Maybe another time. For now, I’ll be a bit more Salteño in that respect and not worry so much about what I don’t have and what isn’t.

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About the author

Leigh Shulman

I'm a writer, editor, photographer and mom. I used to live in NY but then sold everything we owned to travel. My travels took me all over the world until I finally landed in Argentina where I now live and run Cloudhead Art., an art and education NGO.

15 comments
Waegook Tom
Waegook Tom

What a great post! Recently discovered your blog, and catching up with your journey. I'd never even heard of Salta before - it sounds and looks like a lovely place. I get what you mean about the whole "empty words" thing - being a Brit, what we say is often a completely different thing from what we mean! (such as "interesting" meaning "strange" or "boring", to "not bad" meaning "very good") Hopefully Salta has a lot more memories just waiting to be created by you and your family :)

Karl
Karl

Hi Leigh. Are you still living in Salta? How do u like it? I love Chile and Argentina, and wine, and want other people to experience it and enjoy it as much as me. I've been to both countries and now I am hoping to host a wine tour of both countries in May this year. Here is my long URL to the tour. http://mywinepal.com/chile-argentina-wine-tour-with-mywinepal/ I hope you find it interesting, and maybe let others know about it via blog or twitter. Gracias!

Kathleen
Kathleen

I just got back from a trip to Salta and Cafayate with my daughter and husband. We loved it! We live in the Atacama desert (Calama to be exact) so Salta really felt like a paradise to us. It is so green, the people are so friendly, it is so cheap, and the food is delicious. We were wondering if there was any way to get a visa to live there for a while. Salta is definitely one of my favorite cities in South America so far. It is very safe too. After living in Quito for 2 years, I have grown very paranoid, but in Salta, I felt very safe walking around at night. Is there a sizable expat community in Salta?

Leigh Shulman
Leigh Shulman

That is indeed the hope, Julie. It's one of the bigger reasons we left NY. It's a wonderful place, but for me, once we had a child, it just didn't fit anymore.

Leigh Shulman
Leigh Shulman

I love that! "Different people has different priority." Very well said. I know what you mean about that long list of places to visit. Right now, we shuttle back and forth between Salta and Atlanta. I hope our paths cross in one of them soon.

Leigh Shulman
Leigh Shulman

Charles. I literally just laughed out loud. I can't speak for Montana, because I've never been. I guess I'll just have to come and see the state for myself.

Leigh Shulman
Leigh Shulman

It's impossible to see it all, right? Besides, you can always come back. Now that you're onto other adventures in Korea. (I'm still chuckling over the bum-goosing statue -- those who want to know what I mean will have to visit Kyle's blog). And yes, you never love a syrup as much as when you leave it.

Leigh Shulman
Leigh Shulman

Can't wait until you visit also. Right now, our couch (actually a bed) is open and waiting. Lots of room and space for Lyle too.

Leigh Shulman
Leigh Shulman

Yeah, Argentina is pretty special. The first time we drove into Salta after an overnight bus trip, I looked out the window to see just green, green and more green leading up to the mountains and had this feeling of coming home. As for sending us stuff. We life on a country route and I have no idea if mail would actually reach us. Christy (who commented above) is sending me something today. It's a test. We should know in about a month if it works.

Leigh Shulman
Leigh Shulman

Thanks, Christy. Glad we could spend some time here together. xoL

Charles Conlan
Charles Conlan

What? A better place than my place? I can't believe it.

Kyle
Kyle

Dang! Now I'm regretting not visiting Salta. I have now added maple syrup on my 'to do' list when I go back state-side. I totally forgot how tasty it is.

Adam
Adam

Can't wait to visit you guys. Salta sounds like a beautiful place with wonderful people.

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