Photo by Walterioju
There are many reasons, we chose to settle in Salta, but really, the answer comes down to one thing.
Lately, this question seems to be popping up a lot. Friends, family, people I’ve met through this blog and even from Saltenos, surprised and happy to meet an American family who seems to love this place almost as much as they do.
We didn’t leave New York City just to travel. We left on an open ended journey to find a new place to call home. Along the way, yes, the proverbial travel bug bit, making it very difficult to decide on just one place to settle.
So why, then, Salta?
The weather here is lovely. Never too hot. Never too cold. Salta is a city, big enough to find everything you could possibly want or need. Ok, maybe not maple syrup, but that’s a small price to pay to live in such a lovely place. Still, it’s small enough not to feel overwhelmed and overcrowded.
There’s a well working system of buses. Wifi cafes and local internet make it easy to stay connected to the world outside of Salta, and it has an international airport making it easily accessible from anywhere in South America. As I explore more, I find unique places and people who show me a different way to view the world.
But really, it’s the people here that make me want to stay.
People here use a particular figure of speech in response to a Thank You that sums it all up for me. You don’t say You’re welcome as is the case in English. It’s not the French Je vous en prie. And not even the de nada you hear in other Spanish speaking places.
Here, they say Aye, por nada and always said with such warmth and meaning that you truly feel that you are indeed welcome, that whatever has been done for you comes from the heart with no strings and from a a complete and utter generosity of spirit.
When Noah was sick last year, our neighbor, who I barely knew, helped us find medical care. When we needed a place to stay but the apartment we wanted to rent wouldn’t be ready for another week, Monica (again) took us into her home for that week while our new landlord, another person we’d just met, stored our stuff and drove us around town making it easy for us to make the transition to our new place.
I feel this open friendliness everywhere I go. From the person behind the counter at the one McDonald’s in town to an accidental bumping of arms when walking through the busy Peatonal Alberdi — one of many pedestrian shopping areas — in the center of town.
At first, I didn’t trust it at all. Fifteen years in New York — home of the “Hey! Great to see you. I’ll give you a call and we’ll get together” then you don’t get the call, taught me to that words don’t mean what they seem.
Salta is helping me unlearn all that. It’s a slow process, but I find I am more relaxed, more comfortable with people, less worried about how these social interactions will affect Lila.
Of course, it doesn’t hurt that the cost of living in Salta is less money and of better quality than just about any other place I’ve been. There’s lots to do and a great school for Lila. All the fruit and vegetables in the market here — the fabulous mercado municipal on calle Urquiza — has been locally grown. The wine region here is incredible. Travel just a half an hour by bus, and you’ll find some of the most beautiful country I’ve ever
experienced.
Nothing in life is perfect. I’m aware of that, and as easily as I list the positives, I could supply you with a list of negatives as well. Maybe another time. For now, I’ll be a bit more Salteño in that respect and not worry so much about what I don’t have and what isn’t.
About Leigh Shulman
this is a beautiful piece!
I love it. Between your descriptions and David’s of Patagonia, I just love it. Also, I’d totally send you maple syrup.
Can’t wait to visit you guys. Salta sounds like a beautiful place with wonderful people.
Dang! Now I’m regretting not visiting Salta. I have now added maple syrup on my ‘to do’ list when I go back state-side. I totally forgot how tasty it is.
What?
A better place than my place?
I can’t believe it.
Thanks, Christy. Glad we could spend some time here together. xoL
Yeah, Argentina is pretty special. The first time we drove into Salta after an overnight bus trip, I looked out the window to see just green, green and more green leading up to the mountains and had this feeling of coming home.
As for sending us stuff. We life on a country route and I have no idea if mail would actually reach us. Christy (who commented above) is sending me something today. It’s a test. We should know in about a month if it works.
Can’t wait until you visit also.
Right now, our couch (actually a bed) is open and waiting. Lots of room and space for Lyle too.
It’s impossible to see it all, right? Besides, you can always come back.
Now that you’re onto other adventures in Korea. (I’m still chuckling over the bum-goosing statue — those who want to know what I mean will have to visit Kyle’s blog).
And yes, you never love a syrup as much as when you leave it.
Charles. I literally just laughed out loud.
I can’t speak for Montana, because I’ve never been. I guess I’ll just have to come and see the state for myself.
Now, I just have to add Salta to my long list of places I want to visit.
I agree that there will always be some pro and con in every places. I think it’s up to us to look at the positive and make it work for us. Different people has different priority. I’m glad you have found your place and enjoy living there.
I love the idea of unlearning, Leigh, for you and Noah, and the idea that Lila won’t have to unlearn at all….
I love that! “Different people has different priority.” Very well said.
I know what you mean about that long list of places to visit. Right now, we shuttle back and forth between Salta and Atlanta.
I hope our paths cross in one of them soon.
That is indeed the hope, Julie.
It’s one of the bigger reasons we left NY. It’s a wonderful place, but for me, once we had a child, it just didn’t fit anymore.
I could feel the love in this post. Salta sounds wonderful and I need to see if I can fit it in my travel plans this Oct/Nov. Maybe we could meet up!
Great post. It sounds like a lovely place and I’m looking forward to visiting. I love your blog – it seems like we are starting on a similar journey to you did a few years ago. We’ve left the UK to travel indefinitely and may or may not find another place to settle.
I just got back from a trip to Salta and Cafayate with my daughter and husband. We loved it! We live in the Atacama desert (Calama to be exact) so Salta really felt like a paradise to us. It is so green, the people are so friendly, it is so cheap, and the food is delicious. We were wondering if there was any way to get a visa to live there for a while. Salta is definitely one of my favorite cities in South America so far. It is very safe too. After living in Quito for 2 years, I have grown very paranoid, but in Salta, I felt very safe walking around at night. Is there a sizable expat community in Salta?